Race Drivin atari arcade game

Race Drivin’ [Compact model]

From internet:

Race Drivin’ is a driving arcade game that invites players to test drive several high-powered sports cars on stunt and speed courses. The game is the sequel of 1989’s Hard Drivin’ and was part of a new generation of games that featured 3D polygon environments. Unlike most racing games of its time, it attempted to model real world car physics in the simulation of the movement of the players car. Like Hard Drivin’, the game was unique among video games in that it included a true force feedback steering wheel, an ignition key, a 4-speed shifter, and 3 foot pedals (an accelerator, a brake, and a clutch (the clutch being a control seldom seen in any video game, then or now)). Released in August 1990, approximately 1200 units were produced at the time of its release for roughly $9000 each.[1] It was ported to a number of home systems in the mid-1990s, and in 2005 it was ported to the PlayStation 2, GameCube and Xbox as part of the Midway Arcade Treasures 3 collection.

 

note:

brake res 450 to 1k ohms

Swap the ZRAM’s from the DSC board to the main board and I bet at least 90% of your problems will go away.

new parts:

New 5v power supply.

New monitor.

Links:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=235876

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-66231.html

https://www.arcade-history.com/?page=detail&id=2148

From http://wiki.mamedev.org/index.php?title=FAQ:Games#Hard_Drivin.27_.2F_Race_Drivin.27

Hard Drivin’ / Race Drivin’

Gameplay is choppy at times, but I have enough CPU power?
Although the FPS counter shows 100% speed for these games, they may appear choppy. This is true to the original — even the original hardware of these games struggled with them and therefore the choppiness is actually accurate emulation of these games. You may be able to get rid of it in some cases by using the -cheat parameter, hitting the tilde key and browsing the on screen menu until you find “CPU overclocking”. This will run the emulated CPU faster which may or may not fix it. It may also cause the emulation to have errors, so don’t bug people if overclocking screws up a game.

If you are having trouble controlling vehicle or the brake is always on, calibration must be done!
First off, Delete any .NV (NVRAM) file for this game contained in your NVRAM directory, called harddriv.nv or racedriv.nv or the same as the setname you intend to use. You need to understand how the controls are mapped in MAME. It’s not very intuitive, so pay attention:

. Steering wheel: Player 1 Paddle control, by default maps to the mouse and the left/right arrow keys
. Gas pedal: Pedal 1 control, by default maps to the Left Control key. Pressing the key will quickly depress the analog control; releasing the key will release it.
. Brake pedal: Pedal 2 control, by default maps to the Left Alt key. Operates the same way as the gas pedal.
. Clutch pedal: Pedal 3 control, by default maps to the Space key. Operates the same way as the gas and brake pedals.
. Analog Shifter: (found in the non-compact versions only) Maps to the Player 2 analog joystick X/Y axes, which are mapped by default to the keys R, F, D, G.
. Digital Shifter: (found in the compact versions only) Maps to Player 1 buttons 2, 3, 4 and 5. First gear is button 2 (default: Left Alt). Second gear is button 3 (default: Space). Third gear is button 4 (default: Left Shift). Fourth gear is button 5 (default: Z key).
. Key: Maps to Player 1 start button (default: 1 key).
. Abort: Maps to Player 2 start button (default: 2 key).

Finally, here is a step-by-step tour through the calibration process. Note that even if you have an analog control connected to any of the analog controls in the game, it is much easier to do calibration with the keyboard.

1. Take your hands and feet off all controls then turn key. Make absolutely sure you haven’t touched any of the controls up to this point, then press the 1 key.
2. Turn wheel counterclockwise as far as it will go then turn key. At this point, press and hold the Left key for about 5 seconds. After 5 seconds, press the 1 key while still holding down the left arrow. It should say New min 256.
3. Turn wheel clockwise as far as it will go then turn key. At this point, press and hold the Right key for about 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, press the 1 key while still holding down the right arrow. It should say Max 3840.
4. Put transmission in first then turn key and release. Since first gear is in the upper-left corner, press and hold the D and R keys for 5 seconds. After 5 seconds, press the 1 key while still holding down the D and R keys.
5. Put transmission in fourth then turn key again. Since fourth gear is in the lower-right corner, press and hold the F and G keys for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, press the 1 key while still holding down the F and G keys.
6. Move seat full forward then turn key and release. Since the seat feedback isn’t implemented in the MAME driver, just go ahead and press the 1 key here.
7. Move fully back and to side then turn key again. Just press the 1 key here again to move on.
8. Take your foot off the brake turn key to abort. Now this is the tricky part. When you see this screen do nothing. Wait for a couple of seconds until it displays New max 4064. Do NOT press the 1 key prematurely here or you will screw up the calibration!
9. Now step on brake firmly and release. Do this by pressing and holding the Left Alt key for 3 seconds, and then letting go. If all is well, it should display Range 4064 and move on to the game.
There, now that wasn’t so hard, was it?

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